Inside the Strawberry Fields: My Summer at Hugh Lowe Farms
A "Berry-Fun" Journey Through the Heart of UK Agriculture
Over the last few months, I spent my days working at Hugh Lowe Farms, a fifth-generation family-owned establishment in Kent and one of the largest soft fruit growers in the UK. To be truthful, I initially romanticised this opportunity, imagining myself in cute gingham shirts, basket in hand, leisurely picking strawberries under the English sun. So strawberry shortcake!
Despite reality not quite matching my expectations, my six-week stint at Hugh Lowe—Wimbledon’s exclusive strawberry supplier—offered me profound insights into the world of commercial farming. I never fully appreciated the immense effort and countless steps involved in delivering high-quality fruit to our local supermarkets year-round. This experience also opened my eyes to the vital role seasonal workers play and the delicate balance between sustainability and productivity that underpins the agricultural industry. Let’s go!
My First Steps into Strawberry Farming
Upon arrival at Hugh Lowe, I was immediately struck by the vastness of the farm. Each morning at 7 am, we would park at the Pack House before a bus whisked us off to one of the many strawberry fields spread across the estate. I quickly learned that there are over 600 varieties of strawberries, with Hugh Lowe cultivating ten of the most fruitful. Blending traditional plantsmanship with modern technology, the strawberries thrive in long, neatly arranged rows beneath polytunnels. These structures, similar to greenhouses, create optimal growing conditions, extend the harvest season (crucial in the UK), and allow workers to tend to the crops in all weather conditions (perhaps even more crucial).
I joined a team of seasonal workers tasked with pruning strawberry plants throughout the summer. Our responsibilities included trimming away runners (the horizontal shoots from the strawberry plants), removing weeds, and de-leafing, where 3-8 leaves per plant are removed to ensure sunlight reaches the fruit. Together, these tasks help focus the plant's energy on fruit production rather than unnecessary growth.
The first few days were both exciting and daunting. Armed with gloves and a small hand tool, I was trained in the delicate art of identifying and removing runners without damaging the main plants. The work required a sharp eye and a gentle touch—skills that took time to hone. Each of us was expected to prune at least 1,000 meters of plants daily—a challenging yet achievable goal. While the work was physically demanding, especially on the shoulders, it was also therapeutic. The repetitive nature of the task allowed my mind to wander, providing a sense of peace and relaxation. The quiet moments in the fields, punctuated only by the rustling of leaves and the chirping of birds, offered a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. During the longer stretches of the day, I would listen to some of my favourite podcasts or finally dive into my Spotify Discover Weekly playlist. By the end of each shift, my body was sore, but I felt a deep sense of achievement. And yes, I indulged in more than my fair share of strawberries, stuffing my face every hour or so and taking large quantities home for family, neighbours, and friends.
The Workforce: A Global Effort
One of the most striking aspects of my time at Hugh Lowe Farms was the diversity of the workforce. The farm attracted workers from all over the world, each bringing unique skills, perspectives, and an invaluable work ethic. One team, focused on strawberry picking, was compensated based on the volume of produce they collected daily. Watching them move swiftly up and down the rows in the blistering August heat was impressive—they were determined to maximise yields, not only to increase their earnings but also to ensure the farm met its commercial obligations to Tesco, Waitrose, and M&S.
The majority of workers at Hugh Lowe were employed on seasonal contracts, with the farm providing accommodation in exchange for a modest portion of their weekly earnings (around £60). It was heartening to see that many of these workers returned year after year, and some had even been offered full-time positions, allowing them to relocate their families to the UK and build successful careers.
For my team and me—the "pruners," as I liked to call us—this was just a summer job, and to be honest, not one I plan to do again. What stood out to me is that the sheer volume of work could never be completed without the help we bring in from abroad. These workers are truly the backbone of the UK's agricultural sector, supplying the essential labour needed to sustain large-scale farming operations.
The Importance of Seasonal Workers
After finishing my six weeks at the strawberry farm, I wanted to gain a broader understanding of the UK’s reliance on seasonal workers in the farming industry. The agricultural workforce in the UK numbers 471,000, with a significant portion—at least 58,000—comprising seasonal or casual labour. For decades, farmers have relied on European migrant workers to fill these roles.
A visa scheme for migrant farm workers has existed in various forms since 1945, initially attracting students from European countries. The most recent incarnation, the Seasonal Agricultural Workers Scheme, was restricted to Romanian and Bulgarian citizens from 2008 until it was scrapped in 2014. The government believed that demand could be met by EU workers allowed to come to the UK without visas, particularly from Eastern Europe.
However, following reports of labour shortages and concerns about the end of EU free movement, a new Seasonal Worker Pilot scheme was announced in 2018. The Migration Advisory Committee warned that without such a scheme, many businesses in the horticultural sector would likely contract or even close.
Launched in March 2019, the current Seasonal Worker visa scheme initially had a quota of 2,500 places per year. With the end of free movement of EU workers post-Brexit, this quota has increased to at least 45,000 places per year in 2023 and 2024, plus another 2,000 for poultry workers. This can be increased by another 10,000 annually if necessary to meet demand. When the pilot began, workers mostly came from Ukraine and Russia. Today, the scheme includes workers from a broader range of countries, including Central Asian nations like Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, and Tajikistan. These workers can undertake certain types of work, such as crop harvesting, in edible and ornamental horticulture for up to six months each year.
The Role and Challenges of Seasonal Workers
Seasonal Worker visas, issued by the Home Office, are temporary and come with limited rights and extra safeguards. Visa holders are not allowed to remain in the UK long-term, claim benefits, or bring their families. The government has authorised a small number of recruitment companies, known as ‘scheme operators,’ to arrange these visas. Farmers must hire their overseas workers through these companies and demonstrate efforts to recruit UK-based workers as well (this is where my team at Hugh Lowe Farms comes in). Farmers cannot sponsor Seasonal Worker visas directly.
Despite these safeguards, there are increasing concerns about the exploitation of migrant workers. The government acknowledges that Seasonal Worker visa holders “may be more vulnerable and open to exploitation than other workers.” As the number of visas has increased, so have instances of exploitation or poor working conditions. Some workers have reported paying overseas recruiters to secure work in the UK, resulting in debt that makes them more dependent on their UK employer.
Scheme operators must hold a license from the Gangmasters and Labour Abuse Authority, which can be revoked if they fail to meet certain standards. However, the regulator does not routinely inspect farm premises and states it is not the “lead agency” on the rights of seasonal workers. The Independent Chief Inspector of Borders and Immigration has reported a “lack of clarity about who is holding farmers and scheme operators accountable.”
Both the Migration Advisory Committee and the House of Lords Horticulture Sector Committee are currently conducting inquiries into the Seasonal Worker scheme, including the treatment of workers.
The Future of Seasonal Workers in UK Agriculture
Government policy aims to reduce reliance on overseas workers, encouraging farmers to gradually replace them with domestic labour and machines. A review of automation in horticulture has recommended that the Seasonal Worker scheme continue to play a major role until technology, such as robotic crop pickers, becomes widely available.
The Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs has commissioned an Independent Review into Labour Shortages in the Food Supply Chain. Its overdue findings will inform decisions on the future of the Seasonal Worker scheme beyond 2024.
The National Farmers’ Union (NFU) says reliance on overseas labour “will continue to increase” for the foreseeable future. Farming industry representatives, including the NFU, want the Seasonal Worker scheme to be guaranteed five years ahead and for visas to last nine months instead of six. This highlights the ongoing need for a balanced approach that supports the agricultural sector while addressing labour shortages and ensuring fair treatment for all workers.
Reflection and Appreciation
As my time at Hugh Lowe Farms came to an end, I found myself reflecting on the lessons learned and a new appreciation for the importance of agricultural work. It highlighted the crucial role of seasonal workers in maintaining the UK's food supply and the need for policies that support this vital workforce. Despite the language barriers, the brief conversations I had with other seasonal workers at Hugh Lowe were reassuring. Most seemed genuinely happy to be working at the farm and were enjoying the overall experience.
Leaving the farm, I felt a mix of tiredness and gratitude. The physical toil over hot summer days could be intense, but the rewards—both tangible and intangible—were great. I know I’ll look back at the experience with fond memories. As well as consuming the most strawberries I’ve ever eaten in one summer, it was also an eye-opening journey into the heart of farming, where every hand plays a part in nurturing the land and feeding the nation.
As always, please leave a comment with your thoughts or give me a like if you’ve got this far! It honestly means a lot xxxx
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